KOYASAN: Days 10 & 11

KOYASAN

Most of our trip was planned around our desire to spend a couple of nights at a Buddhist temple in Koyasan. We were excited to experience life in a temple in a holy town famous for its temples. The Shingon sect of Esoteric Buddhism promises that it is possible to achieve enlightenment in this lifetime through rightful practice.  Kukai, also known as Kobo Daishi, received the transmission in India and China and brought Shingon to Japan establishing the headquarters of the philosophical system in Koyasan in 816. There are currently 117 monasteries on the mountain and over 3000 temples throughout Japan.

The journey from Kyoto to Koyasan involved a subway train, a shinkansen, another subway, a train to the mountains with one change, a funicular train up the mountainside and a local bus. We were still able to visit a few of the more prominent temples on our first afternoon in Koyasan. The main temple Kongobuji had a steady stream of pilgrims flowing through its doors. Inside monks were chanting beautiful resonant prayers under the watchful eyes of golden Buddhas. The austere sounds within the opulent environment contrived a stunning sense of spiritual wealth and depth. The whole town is built around, and dominated by the temples.

Our temple lodging was of the traditional Japanese ryokan style. The rooms are plain with tatami mats and futons. Shojin Ryori meals are of the Buddhist vegetarian variety. We were served vegan food based on the concept of five flavors and generally include a grilled dish, a pickled dish, a tofu dish, and a soup dish. Our breakfasts and dinners were included in our stay and were of the highest quality providing unfamiliar and lively taste explosions with every bite.

Our second day in Koyasan began with a Buddhist service in the temple where we are staying followed thereafter by breakfast, although the rest of the day was completely rained out with heavy downpours preventing all but a short trip to the nearby Reihokan Museum. Although we would have loved to have visited the Okunoin Cemetry and other local sites, we were content to lay low and catch up on preparing blog entries for when we are once again connected to the internet.